Isetan’s flagship in Shinjuku, Tokyo, with over 130 years of history, has long been the undisputed leader among Japan’s department stores, consistently racking up over JPY 1 trillion in annual sales revenue. The location symbolizes the pinnacle of Japan’s brick-and-mortar retail industry—a must-visit for anyone in Tokyo.
Last year, Chinese beauty product brand Florasis made waves by opening a limited-time shop at Isetan Shinjuku, a move widely seen as a major step toward breaking into Japan’s high-end beauty market.
But Florasis wasn’t the first brand to turn heads there. Before them, Vivaia, a women’s footwear brand, opened a pop-up shop at Isetan that shattered expectations. Customers were said to have lined up for a record three hours to get their hands on Vivaia’s shoes, and the pop-up set the store’s highest sales ever for a temporary outlet.
Since entering Japan in 2022, Vivaia has doubled its monthly sales year-on-year. It’s now a staple of both pop-up events and permanent store locations spread across Japan.
As Japan moved into its “fourth consumption era” after the burst of the economic bubble, the nation’s consumers shifted away from paying hefty sums to buy from premium brands. Instead, they sought out practicality and a more experiential approach to shopping.
For most foreign companies, entering the Japanese market is no small feat. Japan’s e-commerce penetration was only about 8% as of 2021, while offline retail is dominated by “sogo shosha,” wholesale companies unique to Japan. Japanese consumers, known for their attention to detail, hold products to high standards—a challenge that can trip up even seasoned brands.
To succeed, companies must localize their approach. Yet, bridging the gap between online and offline sales remains a steep hill to climb.
Founded in 2020, Vivaia operates on a D2C model, selling in over 60 countries. The brand was incubated by Starlink, a Shenzhen-based company not to be confused with SpaceX’s subsidiary for satellite operations. With backing from investors like Sequoia, ByteDance, and others, Starlink has fostered Vivaia’s international growth.
So, what has helped this young fashion brand carve out its niche in Japan’s fiercely competitive market?
Shoes that speak to Japan’s unique needs
One of Vivaia’s early missteps in Japan was underestimating the demand for shoes that are both easy to wear and made for walking.
Vivaia’s signature products, known for being eco-friendly, comfortable, and versatile, gained popularity quickly upon their introduction in Europe and the US.
At the heart of its success are shoes made from recycled plastic bottles. Vivaia’s supply chain turns these bottles into fibers, which are then knitted using the brand’s “UltraKnit” technology. This eco-friendly method eliminates traditional cutting steps, producing lightweight shoes that are both practical and stylish. Each pair weighs about the same as five pairs of socks. The honeycomb structure of the upper material also enhances breathability while reducing wear.
In Hong Kong, Vivaia’s shoes were hailed as the perfect footwear for commuters due to their eco-friendly materials and lightweight design. SimilarWeb data shows that, in 2023, Vivaia’s website attracted over 10 million visitors, with a 654.6% growth rate. Vivaia became the go-to choice for professional women aged 25–4.
It was clear that Vivaia’s eco-friendly, wearable shoes had struck a chord worldwide.
But Japan posed a different challenge. Li Jingyan, Vivaia’s head of operations in Japan and a partner at Ptmind, observed that Japanese women in their 30s and 40s walk an average of 20,000 steps a day. These women spend long hours commuting by subway and standing throughout the day.
“We thought our selling point—softer shoes with more support, perfect for long-distance walking—would resonate with them,” Li told 36Kr. “But the conversion rate was disappointing.”
Japan’s consumer market has transformed over the years, embracing minimalism and sustainability. Sociologist Atsushi Miura attributes this shift to a “low-desire society” that emerged in the 1990s, driving the rise of brands like Muji, which focus on simplicity and utility.
Younger consumer groups in Japan, like the Millennials and the Generation Z, prioritize minimalist designs and eco-conscious products. According to surveys, consumers over the age of 35 also have strong purchasing power and lean toward thoughtful, purpose-driven brands.
Vivaia’s first success came from deeply understanding its target audience and consistently promoting its product features.
Through third-party interviews, Li and his team discovered that bunions are a common issue in Japan, with nearly 40% of women affected. Furthermore, the most prevalent foot shape in Japan is the Egyptian type—wide feet and low arches.
Vivaia capitalized on these insights by tailoring its approach. The brand’s independent website in Japan not only functions as an e-commerce platform but also captures vital consumer data.
“The beauty of the D2C model is that we can really pinpoint what customers care about,” Li said. “Our backend shows us where users linger—what catches their attention. We noticed they spent a lot of time on bunion-related content, so we knew this was a key interest. We also send out surveys whenever someone makes a purchase to better understand their needs.”
This attention to detail enabled Vivaia to steadily capture a niche in Japan, designing and marketing products based on these consumer preferences.
Take Vivaia’s “Margot” ballet flats as an example. They offer additional toe space without compromising aesthetics. The materials—though originally made from plastic bottles—are highly elastic, providing a four-way stretch that accommodates bunions. The insoles are reinforced for better arch support, making the shoes ideal for long periods of standing. They are also said to be antibacterial, odor-resistant, and feature thickened heels to prevent rubbing. V-shaped grooves on the outsole provide extra grip, making them slip-resistant.
This thoughtful design approach mirrors what other beauty brands have done to break into Japan.
Securing the right local partner
In October 2022, Ptmind’s founders braved the rain, clad in suits and carrying a stack of Vivaia brochures and sample shoes, as they waited for their first meeting with Isetan’s buyers.
Entering Isetan Shinjuku, one of Japan’s premier retail spaces, is no small feat. It requires navigating numerous hurdles.
Ptmind, Vivaia’s partner in Japan, engaged in five or six rounds of discussions with Isetan’s top buyers. After six months of negotiations, Vivaia’s pop-up store opened at Isetan Shinjuku, drawing a three-hour line of eager customers.
Ptmind was a crucial player in this success, leveraging years of experience in Japan’s retail landscape to secure the partnership.
Ptmind, a Sino-Japanese company founded in 2010, has worked with top brands like Muji, L’Oreal, Yohji Yamamoto, and Lion Corporation. Its software-as-a-service product, Ptengine, offers solutions like website analytics, heatmaps, and no-code A/B testing.
Starlink entrusted Ptmind fully with Vivaia’s market expansion in Japan.
“We operate as brother companies,” Li said. “Our operations are completely transparent. Our global team is just 12 people, and we stay updated on each market’s performance daily.”
This trust-based approach was vital. Japan’s market is notoriously difficult to break into, and few Japanese companies are willing to be the first to work with an emerging brand. The country’s business culture emphasizes established relationships and intermediary agents.
Many Chinese companies entering Japan either wait for extended periods or partner with well-connected local firms.
Take Boston Micro Fabrication, for instance. When this Chinese industrial 3D printing firm first entered Japan, it took six months to secure an initial meeting with a Japanese client. Only after two years of producing parts for testing did it finalize a partnership.
Similarly, beauty product brands like Florasis, Flower Knows, and Colorkey have relied on MoldBreaking, a marketing firm operating across Japan and China, to navigate their way into Japan’s competitive market. Guo Xiruo, founder of MoldBreaking, studied in Japan before founding the company, which now works with major Japanese brands like Shiseido and Kao.
In Li’s view, breaking into Japan requires patience and long-term planning. “The Japanese market is more like sand—you have to accumulate it grain by grain to build towers.”
“Opening a physical store in Japan is not about building a financial model—it’s about creating a consumer experience,” Li said. “If you fail to deliver a flawless experience, you won’t earn the consumer’s trust.”
Maintaining consistent pricing across all channels has been a critical aspect of Vivaia’s strategy. “Our online store operates independently, and we maintain the same pricing both online and offline,” Li said. “Aside from holiday promotions, we avoid giving random discounts. We’re focused on building the brand steadily, not chasing short-term sales.”
After two years in Japan, Vivaia has also noticed a wave of copycats, with other brands emulating its marketing language and product positioning to attract customers.
Imitation is an inevitable challenge for any fashion brand.
Before Vivaia made its mark in the European and US markets, flats were already popular among working women. The appeal of recycled plastic bottles and machine-washable designs was common too. But Vivaia succeeded by offering more styles at better prices.
In the end, one thing is certain: continuous innovation, capturing core consumer needs, and adapting to local markets are non-negotiable for any brand looking to grow.
KrASIA Connection features translated and adapted content that was originally published by 36Kr. This article was written by Leslie Zhang for 36Kr.